10 dot 20 can be installed by DIY’ers and Professionals alike.
Quick Installation Guide
10 dot 20 is a quick, dry, acoustic floor leveling system that is easy to install and provides a flat lasting surface for the installation of your preferred floor finish.
10 dot 20 is a two-board system, the lower board having an acoustic foam backing and the top board a flat smooth surface. Once bonded (adhesive is applied to the boards during manufacture), the boards act together to give a strong dry uniform floor.
10 dot 20 is installed by placing the lower acoustic boards foam side down on a plastic membrane (good flooring practise). The upper boards are then fixed to the lower boards by removing the plastic protection films, placing the upper boards on top of the lower boards and applying pressure to activate the adhesive.
The following rules need to be followed to ensure a quality installation:
- The floor moisture level should not exceed 3% and the relative humidity should be less than 80%
- A Damp Proof Membrane (DPM) needs to be installed under the 10 dot 20 boards. The joints of the DPM should be tapped and should have upstands against the neighbouring vertical surfaces (walls).
- There needs to be a gap between any vertical surface (such as a wall) and the flooring system of at least 10mm.
- The boards must be laid as per the layout guide (below)
- There needs to be a movement joint installed every 10 meters (in either width or length)
- The boards must be laid so that the joints between the boards are flush together (i.e. no gaps between the boards once they are laid).
- The outer edges of the boards can be cut to accommodate irregularities in the adjoining faces (normally a wall) but the inner joints (i.e. the joints between boards) must always be tight and neat. Cut edges should be placed facing the walls.
- The plastic must be removed from the boards just before final positioning and there should be no traffic (walking) on the adhesive side of the board once the plastic is removed.
- The installation should be done in a dust free environment.
- Boards can be cut using a sharp knife, but it is preferable to use a skill saw or skill saw on a rail.
Detailed Installation Guide
10 dot 20 is a dry, acoustic, floor levelling system that is used to create a flat surface for later installation of Vinyl, carpets or laminates. 10 dot 20 can be laid onto power floated floors, concrete floors, timber floors, tiled floors, screeded floors and, in fact, any floor that is reasonably flat.
10 dot 20 can accommodate a few millimetres of discrepancies in a floor due to small holes and small ridges – larger ridges and holes need to be removed prior to installation. Generally, your floor should be reasonably flat, but 10 dot 20 can bridge, for example, joints in tiles or expansion joints.
If you have a concrete floor that is too rough for 10 dot 20 installation, it may be worth running a concrete scabbler over the floor before the installation of 10 dot 20.
Note that 10 dot 20 is not suitable for external installations or areas of high water content/humidity. 10 dot 20 can be used in bathrooms and kitchens, but special care needs to be taken to ensure that no flooding occurs in these areas. When used in bathrooms and kitchens, we suggest a joint seal between the timber skirting and the finished floor to prevent water from entering behind the skirting.
STAGE 1 – PREPARATION
- Ensure that any loose material and higher ridges or high points are removed from the floor that you are covering
- Fill any cracks or larger holes with high grade epoxy filler
- Lay a plastic underlay onto the floor and ensure that this layer is turned up the wall (or solid vertical surface).
- Tape the joints of the plastic underlay to ensure that you have a full plastic lining to your floor
- You are now ready to start installing the first floor planks
STAGE 2 – INSTALL First Row of LOWER BOARDS
- 10 dot 20 should be allowed to acclimatize for at least 72 hours in the area where it is to be laid.
- Start at one corner of the room
- Cut one lower boards (the ones with the foam attached) as follows:
- Take Piece No 1 (¾ length x half height board) and lay it foam side down in the corner of your room (starting point) with the two cut ends against the wall. Ensure a gap of 10mm is left between the board and the wall on both sides.
- Place PIECE No 2 (full length half height board) next to piece no 1 (foam side down) as shown below once again ensuring that there is a 10mm gap between board and wall
- Now cut a lower board (the ones with foam attached) in half (length ways) as follows:
- Place PIECE No 3 and then PIECE No 4 (foam side down) next to the first two boards that you laid in the corner of the room always ensuring that the cut side of the board is facing towards the wall as follows:
- When you reach to other wall (finishing point) cut the final board to fit so that there remains a gap of 10mm between the end of the board and the wall. Remember that there needs to be an expansion joint installed if the length exceeds 10 meters (see later detail)
- Now make sure each board is hard up against its neighbouring board without any gaps between the boards
- If the wall is not exactly straight, bowed, or if your wall is irregularly shaped, then cut the boards (on the side of the board that has already been cut i.e. the side facing the wall) to the shape of the wall always allowing a gap of around 10mm between wall and board.
STAGE 3 – INSTALL SECOND ROW OF LOWER BOARDS
- Cut one lower board (the one with foam attached) as follows:
- Place PIECE No 5 (the ¼ board) below the first board that was installed. Ensure that the cut side of the board faces the wall.
- Once again, ensure that the joint between the two boards is flush
- Now pack out full boards to finish the second row of boards. Cut the last board in the row to fit (leaving a 10mm gap to the wall). Ensure all the joints are between the boards are flush
- Although you can pack out the balance of the lower boards, it is now a good time to start positioning the upper boards.
STAGE 4 – INSTALL THE FIRST ROW OF UPPER BOARDS
- Double check that the lower layer of boards is laid correctly and that they have no gaps between the boards
- You are now ready to fix the first top board to the lower boards. The upper board is going to be placed on the lower board as shown in the diagram below (lower boards shown in dotted outline). The first top board is installed in the same corner as where you started the first lower boards.
- Peel the plastic layer of the underside of the board and then place the outer edge of the board on top of the outer edge of the lower board and then slowly lower it into place. The idea here is to have the top board edges exactly in line with the lower board edges (note that this could be difficult if you have had to cut the “wall” side of the boards to fit against irregular walls – make sure however that you get this as accurate as possible.)
- Now hit the top of the board gently with a rubber mallet. Pay particular attention to the outer edges of the board. You need not spend too much time here – a few gentle hits will do the trick.
- Once the first board is in place, you can continue to install the balance of the row. Remember to ensure that the joints between the boards are always kept flush and that there are no gaps left between boards.
- As before, cut the last board to fit and you should have a layout that looks like this
STAGE 5 – INSTALL THE BALANCE OF THE BOARDS
- Cut one of the top boards in half
- and install the one half below the first top board that was installed. Remember that the cut face of the board should face the wall. You will now have a layout as per diagram below
- Continue laying the top boards along the row as before. Remember that there must be no gaps in the joints between the boards. Once complete, you will have a layout as follows
- Continue to lay the boards as per the layout diagram until the entire area is covered. Remember that:
- The maximum length or width is 10 meters before a movement joint needs to be installed;
- There must be a gap of 10mm allowed between the hard, vertical surface (wall) and the boards to allow for expansion. The outer faces of the boards can be cut to accommodate irregularities in the wall finish;
- There should be no gaps between the joints of the boards
STAGE 6 – FINAL COMPLETION
- Lightly sand the joints to ensure that the joints are smooth and level This is best done with a 100-grit sand paper on a sanding board.
- Step back and look at your marvellous handy work…